After three years of showing with a co-ed format, Valentino officially returned to Milan Fashion Week on Friday to present a menâ€™s collection for Spring/Summer 2024. Taking over the UniversitÃ degli Studi di Milano Statale, the show, titled â€œValentino The Narratives,â€ offered a sartorial dialogue on â€œwhat makes a man today,â€ governed by creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Presented to an audience that included fashionâ€™s glitterati, the universityâ€™s students and the public, the opening looks saw sharp-shouldered blazers, buttoned jackets and collared shirts pair with above-the-knee shorts, in all white. The following ensembles, in black, put a contemporary twist on traditional suiting codes, with skinny ties emerging out of knitted overcoats and pointing to subtle skirts. Here, an initially muted color palette offered a clear-cut entrance into the lineâ€™s larger masculine exploration.
Valentinoâ€™s signature Pink PP returned for just one look, comprising a blazer, a floral-embossed top and pleated shorts. Flower-inspired stitchings continued to appear on all sorts of silhouettes, including but not limited to oversized coats, cardigans and short-sleeved shirts. One jacket, in particular, featured lettering reading, â€œWe Are So Old We Have Become Young Again,â€ across its torso, while another, in green, featured three-dimensional embroideries across its entire face. As Valentinoâ€™s kaleidoscope concluded, the collection ended with a series of suit-inspired denim looks.
The line, in its entirety, is unafraid of experimentation, but it still remains intact with tradition and the Houseâ€™s codes. Many pieces, doused in vivid tones or covered in loud graphics, want to be seen; while others, more subdued, would prefer to pass undercover. Some read hypermasculine; some lean into feminine style tropes, and some donâ€™t adhere to gendered fashion archetypes at all. Itâ€™s a collection with something for everyone, and itâ€™s a testament to Valentinoâ€™s expansive menswear identity.
Peruse Valentinoâ€™s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection in the gallery above.